The word “perm” might bring back some repressed memories of retro hairstyles, aerobics and ’80s…everything. Unfortunately, the perm style has been deemed a kitschy, over-curled hairdo over time that is commonly known as a nostalgic view into the past. Contrary to this categorization, however, a modern perm is so much more. Those who lived through the past version of perm hairstyles should shed their fear and visions of super tight ringlets, while those who only know the perm on a Halloween costume level should prepare to be enlightened.

Thanks to the evolution of hair trends as well as new top-notch professional perm products, perms have taken on a new persona in Hollywood and in salons everywhere. Nowadays, perms are becoming more popular in more relaxed styles, allowing for looser, natural-looking curls and lots of added texture. Perms are also now used for more than just a one-way ticket from straight-to-curly hair. Here’s the skinny on the modern perm hairstyle, how to wear it and post-salon visit tips.

The New Perm
For newbies or those who might need a refresher, the word “perm” is short for “permanent hairstyle,” which sets it apart from simply using a hot tool or other device to alter the style of the hair. A perm is typically performed in the salon by a professional stylist and involves wrapping the hair around rods or rollers before a chemical solution is applied to the hair so it keeps the curly shape for months at a time. Instead of tiny rods, a modern perm usually involves wide rollers so that when the perm activator is applied, the hair sets in loose curls or even defined, beachy waves. The result is a textured look that can be styled or left alone for a more natural style that doesn’t look overdone.

Wide rollers and end results aren’t the only things that have changed about perms. Current salon-quality favorite perm products are less harsh on the hair and aim to keep the resulting curls soft, shiny and healthy. Perm activators and brands like Zotos hair products exemplify the latest and greatest in professional perms and hair texture. Active ingredients in Zotos’ perms are accompanied by ultra-conditioning ingredients that fight damage and breakage, making a modern perm easier on the hair.

Styling and Maintaining a Modern Perm
Once a perm has been activated and finished at the salon, there are a few non-negotiable rules to follow. Clients must not wet their hair or use shampoo for at least two days after leaving the salon, and most stylists advise against using conditioner for up to a week. Stylists should make these rules very clear to their clients before beginning the perm process as wetting the hair prematurely post-perm can ruin the fresh curls. When it’s time to start washing the hair again, clients should take special care not to overwash and only use salon-quality shampoo and conditioner that won’t cause the curls to fall earlier than expected.

In order to maintain luscious, healthy-looking curls or waves after a perm, it’s best to avoid submerging the hair in chlorine pools, in addition to washing the hair less often. Clients should think of the perm as their new hair and it should be treated differently than before. Having said that, any new hair that grows will be the same as pre-perm hair. This means that clients with tight perms or perms up to the root will require root touch-ups to keep the look cohesive. Those who take special care of their perms will require less frequent salon visits for touch-ups or new perms altogether.

While maintaining a perm might seem like a lot of work, it’s really more of a preventative routine to help make the curls last for as long as possible and save the hair from unnecessary damage. Perhaps the most fun part about having a perm is using various hair styling products to help get the most out of the resulting curls. Make sure to pick out a few quality hair products made for textured or curly hair so they help keep frizz at bay and maximize texture.

From there, the possibilities are virtually endless. While it’s wise to stay away from hot tools for a little while after getting a perm, it’s possible to style curls larger or smaller throughout the remainder of a perm’s lifespan. It’s fun to get creative with styling a modern perm, whether the results are amped up or soft and natural. If more defined curls are desired, a modern loose perm can easily transform into a big and bold curly look. On the other hand, a wavy perm can be brushed through or even straightened for a more subtle look.